Riding an electric bike through a British winter

Cold weather changes three things about an electric bike: how far it goes, how it stops, and how long it lasts. All three are manageable, and none of them is a reason to put the bike away in October.

Range in the cold

Lithium cells deliver less usable capacity when cold. Below about 5°C expect a noticeable drop; near freezing it can be substantial. The capacity is not lost, only unavailable — it comes back when the pack warms up.

• Store the battery indoors and fit it just before you ride.
• Charge it at room temperature. Charging a battery that is below freezing genuinely damages it, which is a different thing from merely reducing range.
• A neoprene battery cover is cheap and helps on long winter rides.
• Plan winter routes on about 70% of your summer range and you will not be caught out.

Braking

An e-bike is heavier than a normal bike and takes longer to stop. Add a wet rotor and the first fraction of a second of braking does very little while the pads wipe the water off.

• Brake earlier than feels necessary. Everything about winter braking is about time.
• Check pad wear monthly rather than seasonally — grit acts like a grinding paste.
• A light drag on the brakes before a junction clears the rotors.

Tyres and grip

Wet roots, wet metal, painted lines and leaf mulch are the four things that put people down in winter. On an e-bike the extra weight makes a slide harder to catch.

• Drop pressure a few psi for more contact area.
• Do not brake and turn at the same time on wet paint or a drain cover.
• A motor delivering torque mid-corner can break traction on greasy ground. Ease off through the turn rather than powering out of it.

Salt and cleaning

Road salt is the most destructive thing your bike will meet all year. It eats chains, cassettes, bolts and unpainted alloy.

• Rinse the bike after salted-road rides. A bucket and a sponge is enough.
• Never use a pressure washer. Motor and battery seals are designed for rain, not a jet, and water forced into a motor is not a warranty claim.
• Re-lube the chain after it dries, with a wet lube, and wipe the excess off.
• Take the battery out before washing and dry the contacts before refitting.

Being seen

British winter riding is largely done in the dark. Front and rear lights are a legal requirement after dark, plus a red rear reflector and amber pedal reflectors.

• A flashing rear light is more noticeable; a steady one is easier to judge distance from. Run both if you can.
• Reflective material on your ankles moves, and movement is what drivers actually notice.
• If your lights run off the main battery, remember that leaves less for the motor.

Storing it over winter, if you must

If the bike is going away for months: clean it, lube the chain, inflate the tyres, and store the battery indoors at around 60% charge, topping it up every couple of months. A pack left flat all winter may not come back at all.